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View Full Version : Skandic widetrack problem

01-22-2013, 07:39 PM
I've got a 2000 Skandic 500/F widetrack machine. Has the 503 engine.

Recently it has developed an intermittent electrical problem. Now I can't trust it when I go out because I can go 1 mile or 5 before it just quits and then won't start. Definitely electrical not fuel. When it quits if I leave it set for 2-3 hrs it will start right back up. Then same thing happens.

Doesn't matter the outside temp. I was thinking maybe heat related, but it is way to random to be that.

So I am figuring either CDI, stator or stator pick-up. When I have had CDI problems before it was never intermittent. Always just died and no spark .... no matter what.

My best guess is stator or the pick-up. Trouble is the CDI is a whole lot easier to change, so I was wondering if anyone out there has had an intermittent problem on a 503 engine that was caused by bad CDI ??

BTW ... machine only has 2000 miles on it. I just bought it used this Fall.


01-22-2013, 08:28 PM
Dick, do a visual inspection of the head bolts looking for wrench slippage. If present, it could indicate an alignment problem from an unexperienced mechanic. Heating problems arise that mimic intermittent electrical. Never had an intermittent CDI problem. They're either good or bad.

01-22-2013, 08:52 PM
Hi Dick, sounds like a coil problem, they are known to quit when hot. Also check wires to ignition switch and kill switch, good luck, Bob

01-23-2013, 04:47 PM
I know the engine has never been messed with on the machine.

Bob .... I checked all the wiring first because my first instinct was it
was shorting out somewhere. Could not find anything.
The way it acts points to a bad CDI or stator problem.
These things have the coil/cdi all one unit. So it may well be that.

I guess that will be my first choice .... replace the CDI and see if the
intermittent problem goes away.

Thanks for input!

01-24-2013, 06:38 AM
Misalignment of shielding causes heating problems which, in turn, causes the engine to shut down just as you describe. Without wrench marks on the shielding or heads, you can pretty much eliminate actual internal problems or a careless reassembly. Inasmuch as it seems to occur when the engine reaches a certain operating temperature, you can also eliminate electrical contact problems other than direct contact with the heated block.

Checking the cdi: Using a digital multimeter on either side of the cdi pickup, the secondary should read high resistance one way and low resistance when the leads are reversed. All that this does is check the functionality of the incorporated diode that is inductively coupled to the primary voltage (at least that is the theory on most automotive). No resistance is found on the primary return wire (change wires). Crank and let idle until it shuts down. Recheck the cdi as before. If it is as I suspect, you will not be able to get any resistance reading due to a defective diode. (it separates when warm, cooling cause the mechanism to contract reestablishing a complete circuit). Resistivity changes with temperature, but one way should still be high and the other low. If the diode checks out then the problem lies elsewhere.

02-03-2013, 10:11 AM
Just an update....
I changed the cdi/coil unit and the problem seems to have gone away. Went on a couple 6-8 mile runs and it ran fine.
Today is a 20 mile trip .... so we'll see if I end up walking !

Thanks guys for the input.